Friday, 30 November 2012

Day 84: Border Hopping


"...in the Name of Her Majesty all those whom it may concern to allow the bearer to pass freely without let or hindrance..."

The first page of your passport is the most underrated yet the most important page. This weekend...and the rest of the year would have been difficult if the Queen hadn't requested that we be able to travel freely.

Only 6 days remained until our visa ran out so to ensure we could remain in Morocco (even though it would be nice to escape the cold weather) we had to renew our visa. This meant border hopping into one of the two Spanish colonies still present in Morocco. Our destination was Melilia...various spellings will ensue.

We boarded the 3am train and our bodies joined the hundreds of others asleep on seats, the top of the tables and on the floor. Un-phased by the 6am connecting train we arrived at the sleepy boarder town of Nador intact. En-route to the border gates we passed hundreds of cars, filled to the brim, waiting their turn to enter 'Europe'. Guards wandered around looking fairly casual yet there was an agitated air as Moroccans queued in their hundreds to pass through the gate. 
Our British passports gave us a shorter queue and far less hassle. Travelling with our friends of Pakistani origin was an eye opener as one of them said 'it was the first time it was easy for him to be British'. The growing crowd in front of the gate to Melilia parted in two as we waved our purple booklets, and the guards didn't even bother to look at our stamps.Once through we just kept walking...and no-one stopped us. 
 In comparison with our Moroccan friends, who spend months applying for a simple tourist visa, holding a British Passport means one can travel the majority of the world, without hassle. I had completely taken that for granted.



Although Melilia is in Morocco, it is  legitimately Spanish. The 200m walk over the border changed not just the language but the religion, food, currency, attitude and time!? Suddenly we were an hour ahead of the guard who had just let us in. 

The most liberating change of the whole weekend was the attitude the locals had towards tourists, and particularly girls. Last week I was accosted hugely inappropriately by a young school boy so this change in outlook was very welcome.   We took advantage of the more liberal Spanish culture. After a meal where Daisy was insulted and wooed by the same waiter, we went in search of chocolate and cocktails...naturally. Walking along the moonlit sea front at midnight, without cat calls or invisible eyes was wonderful. Even at the boarder the totes on our return into Morocco were more friendly. Unlike the previous morning...none of our passports were snatched out our hands.

Melilia is beautiful, even the weather improved. The old fort at the top of the town looks down onto isolated coves surrounded by Mediterranean water. Desperate to jump into the sea, we satisfied ourselves by staring pensively out onto the horizon for hours...interspersed by taking photos of ourselves being pensive...obviously. 

The more I travel, the more attached to Britain I become. Every country I've been to has been wonderful and inspiring, but ultimately this could not have been possible if I did not carry my British passport. 



الله يهنيك


Nay xxx





Friday, 16 November 2012

Day 70: Topics of Conversation.

It would be incredibly un-British of me not to talk about the weather during my stay in Morocco. Similar to conversations in Britain, conversations here often begin or finish with the discussion of said topic. Not through choice, but because we know weather vocabulary...

It may surprise many of you, but Morocco is now cold! I have had to purchase a very European-esque coat and Moroccans are appearing with over-sized golf umbrellas, which simply don't fit in the small, medina alleys. Ifrane, a village near Fez has snow, and I am reliably informed it has snow for up to 3 months of the year. Who would have thought!?

I've taken to walking home in the evenings, (not when it's dark, don't worry) as the sun is just about to set. Dusk, as it were. The old medina is overshadowed by Mount Zalagh and on Tuesday evening, the final bit of sunlight was shining down on to the top of the mountain and both halves of a rainbow were visible. Pretty darn special. 


Throughout all my travels, British autumn has always been my achilles heel for homesickness. Surprisingly though, this Moroccan weather has cured all that. Our evening routines of mint tea on the roof hasn't changed, except that now we wear coats and scarves (thank goodness for my over-enthusiastic love of scarves!).

Our riad has become increasingly more cosy. The large wooden doors onto the living room and dining room are now shut to retain heat, and we use the smaller doors, built into the big ones. Ingenious.  Our 'Parisian' landlord has supplied us with gas heaters and enough gas for two months. The past couple of weekends have been spent watching films, curled up with various friends and various dishes of food, in front of this magical heater.

Another topic of conversation favored among many,and certainly close to my heart, is food. Last week was the week of 'Bastilla'; a sweet Moroccan main dish made traditionally with meat and almonds, and wrapped in pastry. Our first encounter of the week was at our 'Mahaba Hefla' (party) thanks to our favourite Moroccans Yassine & Youssef. After simply gazing at the large bastilla for hours, we devoured it within minutes. The second helping was at the engagement party of Youssef's uncle which Victoria and I found ourselves dancing at. At 11:30pm we sat down to dinner in multiple languages.
Bastilla is the perfect dish to share; dig in with your hands and pass parcels of sweet meat around to all your friends.



However, my favourite food of the week, possibly of all time, is 'malawi momtez'; thick pastry, coated in chocolate spread and honey, rolled up and cut into slices. The ultimate afternoon snack or dinner...or both. Alash la. Sarah and I have made friends with the malawi-men who now put on extra honey and supply us with mint tea to wash down this meal of deliciousness. Haha. 

So in conclusion, life here is still really good. The weather is beautiful. The food is wonderful, and the people are still incredible. 


الله يهنيك


Nay xxx